Grünkohl mit Pinkel

The story

In Bremen, Oldenburg and East Frisia, kale is the vegetable of winter. Farmers traditionally waited for the first frost before harvesting it, and the cold weeks that follow are the season of the Kohlfahrt, the kale outing. A group walks through the countryside to a village inn, playing outdoor games such as Boßeln along the way and passing around Korn, a grain spirit carried in a handcart. Saturdays in January and February are the favorite dates, and inns are booked weeks ahead. At the table the kale arrives long-stewed and dark, topped with Kassler, bacon and sausages, with boiled or fried potatoes. One guest is named Kohlkönig, the kale king, chosen by portions eaten, by weight gained or by the results of the games, and must organize the next year's outing. The sausage that matters most is Pinkel, smoked and made of bacon, oat or barley groats, beef suet, lard and onions. Butchers keep their recipes secret, so Pinkel changes from village to village. People in Bremen call the dish Braunkohl und Pinkel, while the surrounding towns say Grünkohl. Start the kale a day early if you can, and set out plenty of mustard.