Saganaki

The story

Saganaki is named after the sagani, the small, shallow two-handled frying pan that Greek home cooks in Asia Minor used, and cheese fried this way is served as a meze for sharing. The cheese has to be firm enough to hold its shape in hot oil. Graviera, kefalotyri, kefalograviera and kasseri are the usual choices. Greek cooks dip the slab in water, coat it in flour and fry it in well-heated olive oil for a minute or two, until the surface turns golden. Cheeses such as halloumi, talagani or mastelo go into the pan without flour. A squeeze of lemon is the only finish, and the cheese is eaten at once, before it hardens as it cools.

The flames that many Americans expect came from Chicago. Chris Liakouras, who co-founded the Parthenon restaurant in Greektown in 1968, is credited with starting the custom of pouring Metaxa over the cheese and setting it alight, to cries of "Opa." His daughter Yanna has said the flaming does not affect the taste and is just for show. The Parthenon announced its permanent closing in September 2016.

Fry the cheese once your guest is seated, and set out crusty bread for the lemony oil left in the pan.