Svíčková na smetaně

The story

Czechs call svíčková na smetaně their national dish, and Czech Radio counts it among the most popular meals in the country. The name comes from svíčková, the beef tenderloin, but many cooks braise a cheaper cut such as round and keep the tenderloin for steak. What matters is the sauce. Carrot, parsley root, celery root and onion are browned with a little caramelized sugar, braised with the beef, bay leaf, allspice and a splash of vinegar, then puréed and finished with cream, so the result tastes sweet, sour and salty at once. The dish has roots in Austro-Hungarian cooking, and according to the Czech tourism board it was traditionally served on festive occasions, including weddings, celebrations and important visits. Many families keep their own version. Marek Janouch, a chef at the Prague restaurant Lokál, told Czech Radio to roast the vegetables well, take your time, and let the meat rest overnight in the sauce. On the plate it comes with bread dumplings, a slice of lemon, a spoonful of cranberries and often a dollop of whipped cream. For a dinner for two, braise it the day before, so the evening itself is only reheating and slicing.